Tsukiji Fish Market

The 83-year old Tsukiji Fish Market at Tokyo’s Chuo Ward held its last tuna auction viewing on September 13, 2018 before it commences its operation at the new location at Toyosu in Koto Ward on October 11. I had the opportunity to spend three early mornings at the one of the world’s largest fish market in 2005 when I was working in Tokyo. It was an eye opening experience to be in close proximity with one of Japan’s hallowed center of business, and the culture and cuisine that come along with it. Being aware of the impending move I had planned a second visit to the market in 2018. But because of personal reasons that visit never happened, and now my 2005 visit will remain as a once in a life-time visit.

Nothing prepares one for the intensity of the auction that starts early morning. With tens of thousands of dollars at stake the tension is palpable in the sub-zero room which is lined with rows of frozen tuna. Armed with flashlights experienced buyers examine small lumps of tuna cut from the tail side before the auctioneer conducts the auction at a furious pace. Auctioned tuna moves fast to the vendor stalls for carving and subsequent sales and shipment to hotels and restaurants in the country and across the world.

The market is a smorgasbord of every conceivable fish and critter that grows in water. There were two things that struck me at the market – for the enormity of its operation the lack of smell; and the robotic precision of workers cleaning, carving and boxing the fish.

Three mornings at the market made me a recognizable person at the market. In spite of the language barrier I was able to communicate with some of the vendors who open heartedly served me Grade I tuna for breakfast. I also did sushi and sashimi tasting at the restaurants around the market which I read will be a big collateral damage when the move happens in October.